One usually thinks of Florence when thinking of Italian leather goods. But the plethora of mediocre-to-refined shoe stores in Venice is testimony to the tradition of small shoe factories along the nearby Brenta canal that supply most of Italy and much of the world with made-in-Italy footwear.

As far as chic shoes, bags and wallets go, the shops around the Mercerie, Frezzeria and Calle Goldoni are not as expensive as they might first appear, and sales are a regular occurrence in the Mercerie. If you can afford the very best, on the other hand, you should take a look at Rolando Segalin, Calle dei Fuseri 4365 (San Marco) - established in 1932, this workshop produces wonderful handmade shoes, from sturdy brogues to whimsical Carnival footwear, such as leather shoes with toes. Delicate silk and velvet shoes, bags, hats and gloves are a specialty of Valeria Bellinaso, Campo Sant'Aponal (San Polo).

If money is no object, go browsing around Calle Vallaresso and Calle Larga XXII Marzo, where names such as Vogini and Bottega Veneta uphold the city's reputation as a market for immaculately produced leather goods. In Merceria dell'Orologio you'll find a big branch of Mandarina Duck, whose stylish and durable bags, often manufactured from rubber and heavy-gauge nylon, have become classic accessories all over Italy. For something unique to Venice, call in at Francis Model, Ruga Rialto 773a (San Polo), a father and son workshop that produces high-quality handbags and briefcases.

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