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Eating in Palermo
Palermo is also distinguished for some characteristic dishes; all the recipes were invented in this city and then spread to the rest of Sicily. Once very tasty example is pasta con le sarde, a recipe made with simple ingredients but which is served in even the most luxurious restaurants in Palermo. This is a very tasty first course, made with wild fennel, fresh sardines, anchovies, saffron, sultanas and pine-nuts. Panelle are also a typical Palermo dish: rectangular snacks made with chickpea flour, salt, pepper and parsley, fried in vegetable oil and served in the open-air kiosks. Other typical "street" snacks are sfincione, a kind of pizza topped with tomato, anchovies and onion, and pani c'a meusa, a sandwich filled with spleen.
Some places for eating:
Bellini, Piazza Bellini. The best bet for alfresco pizzas; outdoor tables are in the shadow of La Martorana church. Service is, however, somewhat slapdash. Closed Tues. Moderate.
Caffé d'Oriente, Piazza Cancellieri. Hidden away at the top of Via Celso (an alley off Via Maqueda near Corso Vittorio Emanuiele), this place swims with North African atmosphere. Couscous and other specialities are served in the square. Closed Mon. Moderate.
Charleston, Piazza Ungheria 30 (Tel: 091 321 366). For a special treat try Palermo's most celebrated high-class restaurant. Formal and stylish, it serves exquisite cuisine, with regular forays into other Italian regions to supplement its Sicilian specialities. Between mid-June and late September, the restaurant shifts to the beach at Mondello. Reservations advised. Closed Sun. Very Expensive.
Trattoria-Pizzeria Enzo, Via Maurolico 17/19. The city's best bargain for three-course meals - hefty portions and daft prices. Closed Fri. Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Italia, Via Orologio 54 (opposite Teatro Mássimo). The best place in town for pizzas, attracting large queues. Closed lunchtime except Sun & also all day Mon from Oct to May. Inexpensive.
Peppino, Piazza Castelnuovo 49. A full restaurant menu is offered alongside some good pizzas. It's touristy, but in a good location. Closed Wed & Aug Moderate.
Trattoria dal Pompiere , Via Bara Olivella 107 (opposite Teatro Mássimo). It's a bit seedy, but the pizzas are spot on. Inexpensive.
Primavera, Piazza Bologni 4. Close to the cathedral with outdoor seating, this is a popular trattoria with home-style cooking. Closed Mon. Moderate.
Santandrea, Piazza Sant'Andrea (Tel: 091 334 999). Chic and popular restaurant a stone's throw from Piazza San Domenico and the Vucciria market. There are no menus, dishes are seasonal and generally delicious. Book early to eat alfresco. Closed Tues & Jan. Expensive.
Stella, Via Alloro 104. Seafood pasta and grilled fish served in the lovely courtyard of this little restaurant in La Kalsa. Closed Sun & Mon lunch in summer, Sun lunch & Mon in winter. Moderate.
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