Airlines Alitalia, Via Medina 41-42 (tel 081.542.5333); British Airways (Tel: 147.812.266; Capodichino airport desk Tel: 081.780.3087); TWA, Via Cervantes 55 (Tel: 081.551.3063).

Books English-language books from Universal, Rione Sirignano 1 (Tel: 081.663.217).

British Council Library , via Morghen 31, Vomero (Tel: 081.558.5817, www.britishcouncil.it ). Features a limited range of literature, some reference books and a video library.

Car rental Avis, Via Piedigrotta 44 (Tel: 081.761.1365); Europcar, Via Scarfoglio 10 (Tel: 081.570.8426); Hertz, Via N. Sauro 21 (Tel: 081.764.5323); Maggiore, Via Cervantes 92 (Tel: 081.552.1900). These agents also have desks at Stazione Centrale and at the airport.

Consulates Canada, Via Carducci 29 (Tel: 081.401.338); UK, Via Francesco Crispi 122 (Tel: 081.663.511); USA, Piazza della Repubblica (Tel: 081.583.8111).

Exchange Outside normal banking hours you can change money and travellers' cheques at the booth inside Stazione Centrale (daily 7am-9pm).

Football The Stadio di San Paolo in Fuorigrotta is the home of the Napoli side, who are currently in Serie A. To get to the ground, take the Ferrovia Cumana from Montesanto to Mostra and the stadium is right in front of you. Tickets, available from the offices facing you as you approach, or from the club's outlets in town, cost around L30,000/15.49.

Funerals Death is big business in Naples, and you can still see the incredibly ornate traditional black hearses pulled by teams of horses on the streets of the city - the preferred way to go of Neapolitan fat cats and higher-ranking Camorra members. There are other, equally bizarre Neapolitan customs regarding death: a white hearse, for example, means a child or virgin has died; and despite official discouragement there are reports of some corpses being dug up by their families after burial, in a bizarre celebration centring on All Souls Day - November 2.

Hospital To call an ambulance, dial 081.752.8282, 081.752.0696 or 081.752.0850, or go to the Guardia Medica Permanente in the Palazzo Municipio, open 24hr.

Internet As well as the caf�s and bars listed on p.834-5, try Internet Globe, on Via Carrozzieria (Tel: 081.551.0306).

Language courses The Centro Italiano, Vico S. Maria dell'Aiuto 17 (Tel: 081.552.4331, fax 081.552.3023), runs a selection of courses on Italian language and culture, ranging from an intensive two-week option (L420,000/216.91) to a more relaxed three-month one (L780,000/402.84), as well as specialist courses on cookery, the "Neapolitan crib", and archeology.

Lottery Along with San Gennaro, the lottery is a fanatically observed institution in Naples. Winning the lottery is seen, in a way, as the ultimate triumph over the system, and superstitions around it are rife - to the extent that there's even a book, La Smorfia , which interprets the meaning behind each lottery number. There are also people, called assisti (literally "guided ones"), who claim to have supernatural access to knowledge of what the winning numbers will be. If you're keen to see the lottery draw, it's made every Saturday noon at the Ufficio Lotto on Via San Biagio dei Librai, to the accompaniment of much hysteria.

Markets The Mercato dei Fiori (Flower Market) at Castel Nuovo kicks off every morning at sunrise, while Pignasecca on via Pignasecca is an atmospheric daily market, the stalls piled with fresh fruit, vegetables and seafood.

Pharmacies Late-night pharmacies work on a rotation system; tel 1100 for addresses of the three nearest open pharmacies from the point you are calling from, or look in Il Mattino . There's also a pharmacy at Napoli Centrale (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm).

Police tel 112; you can speak to an operator in English. The main police station is at Via Medina 75 (Tel: 081.794.1111); you can also report crimes at the small police station in Stazione Centrale. To report theft of a car call 081.794.1436.

Post office The main post office is in the enormous building on Piazza Matteotti, just off Via Toledo (Mon-Sat 8.15am-7.20pm).

Telephones There is a Telecom Italia office at Napoli Centrale (open 24hr), though large queues form early evening. The office at Via Depretis 40 (also 24hr) is quieter.

Tours The Naples tourist office run guided bus tours of various parts of the city every Sunday morning beginning at 10.30am; details direct from one of their offices. Free guided excursions are organized by the Chamber of Commerce; ask at your hotel or at a travel agent for details and a voucher. You can also experience underground Naples on tours run by LAES (Sat & Sun 10am; Tel: 081.400.256), which leave from Bar Gambrinus on Piazza Trieste e Trento and take you through sewers and passageways that date back as far as 4000 years. Napoli Sotteranea run a similar tour (Sat & Sun; Tel: 081.296.944); the meeting point is Piazza San Gaetano. In summer you can also cruise Naples harbour by boat at night; departures are from Mergellina harbour twice each Saturday between mid-July and the end of August, three times on Sunday; in September just three times each Sunday evening. Tickets are available at the embarkation point or from the Piazza Ges� Nuovo tourist office.

Travel agents CTS, Via Mezzocannone 25 (Tel: 081.552.7960), for discount tickets, budget flights and so on. You could also try Eurostudy, Via Mezzocannone 119 (Tel: 081.552.0947).